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was to mediate peace between the Osage and relocating Cherokees, who were increasingly displaced from their traditional eastern lands. Atop Belle Point, my wife and I circled the foundations of the First Fort. There's not much left today, just stone outlines where the structure once stood. The early fort was a simple square stockade with log walls, each 132 feet long. At opposite corners stood a pair of two-story blockhouses. Inside, the fort housed barracks, storage rooms, shops, a hospital, and an ammunition magazine. The closest the soldiers came to combat was in April 1821, after a series of raids and skirmishes led to war between the Osage and Cherokee. The Osage leader Bad Tempered Buffalo and 200 warriors appeared on the banks of the Arkansas River across from Fort Smith. Soldiers ferried the Osage leader and seven war chiefs across the river to meet with the fort commander. When Bad Tempered Buffalo demanded gunpowder to fight the Cherokee, the fort commander refused. While the Osage party was ferried back to the western shore, the soldiers readied two six- pound cannons for action. Instead of initiating battle, the Osage withdrew into the woods. By 1822, there were five companies of infantry stationed at the fort. But two years later, the new Fort Gibson was established 80 miles west inside an area considered Indian Territory. The first Fort Smith was soon abandoned. Atop Belle Point, my wife and I completed a loop on the River Trail and walked a short way inland to the grounds of the Second Fort. Today, several of the main buildings are preserved with interiors to explore once COVID restrictions are lifted (for updates, visit nps.gov/fosm/).
The Second Fort
The story of the Second Fort begins with the Trail of Tears. In 1830, President Andrew Jackson signed the Indian Removal Act, which forced members of the so- called Five Civilized Tribes to leave their homes and relocate to Indian Territory in modern-day Oklahoma. Starting in 1831, the Choctaw began streaming into the area. Five years later came the Creeks, Chickasaws, Cherokees, and Seminoles. Over 10,000 Native Americans died on the Trail of Tears. Arkansas became a state in 1836. In the meantime, a civilian community had developed next to Fort Smith, with merchants and taverns. Residents petitioned the US Government for a permanent military presence. Construction of the Second Fort began in 1839. By 1845, war with Mexico seemed likely, and the partially built fort was redesignated as a supply depot - a use that lasted for the next 25 years of westward expansion. During the Civil War, the Second Fort was abandoned by Federal troops, occupied by Confederates, and regained by the Union near the end of 1863. During a weeklong offensive in 1864, Confederate troops failed to retake the fort. As the war came to an end, Fort Smith became a destination for civilian refugees seeking protection. After the war, the frontier had moved so far west that
destination
OUTDOOR HIGHLIGHTS
RIVER BLUFF NATURE TRAIL Beginning atop the high bluffs overlooking Ozark Lake, it winds down to their base. The trail then makes its way along the forest floor before traveling to the overlook shelter at the top of the bluffs. From the overlook, you have a view of the river as it begins its journey through Arkansas. LAKE FORT SMITH STATE PARK Nestled in a scenic valley of the Boston Mountain Range of the Ozark Mountains, this state park is on the western side of Lake Fort Smith. Here, you can enjoy outdoor activities including camping, fishing, kayaking, swimming, mountain biking, hiking, and nature study. SPRINGHILL PARK MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAIL Located at Springhill Park, the trail is a 10-mile route with three loops that twist and wind like a spider web. Known as a "fast" trail by experienced mountain bikers, it's home to monthly races and two annual competitions sanctioned by the International Mountain Biking Association. Learn more about these and other outdoor highlights at fortsmith.org
ABOVE:
Fort Smith National Historic Site. ( MIKE BEZEMEK )
LEFT:
Restored courtroom at Fort Smith. ( ARKANSAS TOURISM )
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